Few destinations boast the magical atmosphere of Venice.
Venice Ornate Facade Photo © Alice Joyce
Cruising by on a vaporetto, sights such as a palazzo’s lavishly adorned facade could make me catch my breath despite being surrounded by activity. And no, I wasn’t tempted to take part in an overpriced gondola ride. Except, that is, when crossing the Grand Canal on a gondola traghetto ferry. For E. ,50 – half a Euro. It’s a cool way to be shuttled across, feeling one with the saavvy Venetians who employ this mode of transport as a shortcut.
Cappuccino Venice Photo © Alice Joyce
Yes, there is an art to serving morning Cappuccino!
Ponte Chiodo Guesthouse Photo © Alice Joyce
Ponte Chiodo Guesthouse provided a perfect base to begin my immersion in the everyday life of a city marked by crowds of tourists. A charming host, Mattia Baseggio is welcoming, helpful, and a delightful conversationalist. Choosing to stay at Ponte Chiodo in the Cannaregio Sestiere – as the city’s districts are called, proved comfortably distant from the bustle of St. Mark’s, yet convenient to navigating each day’s itinerary. Enjoying breakfast in the garden … a peaceful start to the day.
Ponte Chiodo Garden Venice © Alice Joyce
The Peggy Guggenheim Collection located in the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, certainly a must-see attraction. Plan on half a day to take in the museum’s amazing trove of permanent artworks, along with special exhibitions. A favorite artist of mine, Georgio Morandi is represented in the Gianni Mattioli Collection on long-term loan, with paintings which include the lyrical still life, below.
Morandi – Photo: Alice Joyce
I’d been uncertain about a visit to the island of Torcello. Thankfully, Mattia suggested we must stopover at Torcello first, returning afterwards by vaporetto to the island of Burano – a major draw for tourists. Nature’s quietude reigns over Torcello, barely inhabited, yet once an important central settlement in the lagoon dating arguably as far back as the 5th Century. The breathtaking beauty of sparkling Byzantine and Venetian mosaics adorn the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta.
Torcello Vignette Photo © Alice Joyce
The island also boasts fine restaurants where you might stop for a meal, bringing to mind Hemingway’s association with Locanda Cipriani. Or, perhaps before traveling on, boarding the ferry to deal with Burano’s daytrippers, you’ll choose a reataurant with an expansive garden setting, as we did, complete with comfortable seating discretely set apart on the lawn.
Torcello Statuary © Alice Joyce
Here, sipping a Campari Spritz, you can experience the peaceful beauty of a rustic island that I hope to return to one day for an extended stay. There’s a mysterious presence permeating the island’s wild meadows and privately maintained garden spaces.
Look for upcoming features where I’ll be touring the great gardens and villas of the Veneto region, the beguiling towns of Lago di Garda, travel tips, and more.
Ponte Chiodo Venice © Alice Joyce
Ponte Chiodo .. the last bridge of its kind in Venezia.
Photographed from my window at the guest house.
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